I agree, use dyneema cored line for this job, mine has been working great for about a dozen years. The Complete RIgger’s Apprentice by Brian Toss does recommend a bury that’s twice as long for dyneema than on ordinary lines, even using what he calls the Moebius eye splice, the locked splice. I did some whipping in the tapered portions (using normal whipping twine) because the core on the line I had wasn’t as abrasion resistant as the outer material. That may not be needed in your case.

In very high wind (it was gusting 35+ knots at Columbia Gorge one year), tapered sheets are not ideal. Bruce Fleming is the man to explain why in detail. So save your stock sheet for such times. Soft shackles have worked very well for me in securing the eyes to the genneker clew, it hasn’t failed me yet.

I Did the taper and a spliced loop at the end for a soft shackle. Works great! I was also told the poly braid wouldn't work for taper and a bite. I purchased 6mm dynema cored line (https://nautos-usa.com/products/dy-pes-performance-rope-dyneema-core-with-premium-polyester-cover). You're gonna lose some length to tapering and splicing. I ordered 40ft and wound up using it all. I wanted to make sure I could sit on the "back porch" and still tend the sheet. I can't remember exactly, but it's about the same length after the splicing as the original from the manufacturer. You have to think through so that the burried part of the taper doesn't interfere with the buried part of the spliced loop. Here's the link I used for the splice. He talks alot about the why and gives an example of what not to do, before he tells you what to do. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=UpkqJ4GRfSg. Here's the link I used for the taper (https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x62BoCSpReA). Eric Frank was also a good help. As you can imagine I pontificated on it for several months.