Any worn section of track is suggested to be replaced with new pvc track. There are two sections of the mast that are prone to the most wear and pullout. Every boat will be slightly different, but the top 10-20 cm of track and the bottom 30-50 cm of track seem to be an issue on every boat. This procedure is the proposed standardized solution based on the manufacturers recommendations.
Parts and Equipment:
1 meter pvc track
3m 5200 adhesive
Masking tape
Sharpie/marker
Sharp blade
Hacksaw
100 grit sandpaper
Denatured alcohol
Paper towels
Pliers
Lengths of line (7mm and 5mm)
Recommended PPE:
Nitrile gloves
Respirator
Safety goggles
Shop-vac
Procedure:
Use a hacksaw to split the 1 meter section into a 50 cm, a 30 cm, and a 20 cm section. Ensure your cuts are 90 degrees to the track so they join seamlessly with the old track. Lightly sand ends to remove burrs.
Identify areas that will be replaced and mark with sharpie. We will be replacing the bottom 50 cm and the top 20 cm. The 30 cm piece will be leftover as spare. Measure the area you will replace with the length of track you will be using so they are a precise match.
Use the hacksaw to cut the old track at your marks. Consider the width of the saw blade when cutting to not overshoot your mark, as well as cutting perpendicular to the mast. Take special care to not cut any of the masts' carbon fibers. The saw can be used to go most of the way through, and then the blade used for the final few millimeters.
Use your blade to score about 5 mm deep into the adhesive under the old track along both sides. Then grab the track with your pliers and start rocking it side to side. By going up and down the track, you can dislodge most of the adhesive and then pull it off slowly from one end. A flathead screwdriver can also help pry it off
Use your blade to remove as much adhesive as you can without damaging the carbon fibers. The rest can be removed with sandpaper. Also smooth out the inside of the track where it was cut. Use denatured alcohol to wipe away dust.
Run masking tape down each side of the track where you want the adhesive to stop. Then use the sandpaper to rough up the back of the new pvc track. Wipe clean.
Run a bead of 5200 down the entire length of the exposed mast. Ensure you use enough to fully cover the exposed area with a little bit of squeeze-out when the track is pressed into it. Place your track down on the adhesive, and press down slowly and evenly. Ensure you get squeeze-out all the way down both sides of the track. Spread out adhesive to fill any gaps.
Use paper towel and denatured alcohol to clean up any adhesive that may have squeezed into the track through the ends. Then prepare an analog bolt rope to help line the tracks up. Get a line approximately the diameter of your sails bolt rope. 7mm line is perfect diameter. You can also use a 6mm line and fold a paper towel in half over it. This allows you to push your line down to where your repair is and get a smooth transition between tracks to minimize risk of sail tear.
With the bolt rope holding the section in place, wrap masking tape around the mast and new track to compress it into the adhesive. It is recommended to let it sit overnight. Then run your blade along the line of your masking tape while lifting the tape up. Take your time. Pulling the tape off as one piece makes the edge much sharper.
There may be a slight ridge on the interior between the two pieces. Wrap a piece of sandpaper around a 5mm line and thread into track. By working across the crease you smooth the joint out for a free moving sail
Manufacturers Notes:
Do not use acetone as an alternative solvent
If not already done, replace the old plastic sail feeder with the new aluminum sail feeder.
Alternate adhesive options are Bostik Simson MSR and Fixtech Fix 190
Please ask any questions in the comments of this post. Someone else might be looking for the same answer
The mast track required to make this repair can be ordered from us at https://www.eastcoastsailboats.com/product/mast-track-3m-length/
Instead of using rope to align the portions of the track, I used a drill bit which fit closely. Since they come in such a range of sizes, this is easy to find. It is more precise and more rigid than a rope and less prone to getting stuck in place by stray adhesive. You can easily push it out after adhesive has set. Also, the 3M 5200 will harden in the tube within a few months of opening. You can slow this a little bit by placing the closed tube inside a ziplock and then in the freezer, but it will still harden up after a while. Buy the smallest tube and fix those leaky ama hatches or whatever needs patching while the tube works. A sharp scraper blade such as used for paint or epoxy repairs is great for removing the old track adhesive.